Preen designers Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi had fellow It Brits in mind when they created their spring 2010 collection. Corinne Day’s early-’90s snapshots of Kate Moss provided inspiration and, in turn, clothing embodied Moss’ brand of boyish-tinged femininity. Faces followed suit, with a look that makeup artist James Kaliardos describes as androgynous and undone yet “still beautiful and confident.” To satisfy the masculine component, Kaliardos contoured around eye sockets, temples, and cheekbones with brown sculpting powder for a strong, angular appearance. He also eschewed blush, highlighter, lip stain, and mascara in favor of models’ natural coloring. The only areas on his monochromatic canvas that deviated from the norm were the inner corners of the eyes: For a feminine, unexpected pop, Kaliardos applied shimmering silver eye shadow.
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